Mouse-Proofing Mesh?

Does anyone know if half-inch mesh works well for mouse-proofing hives during the winter?

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LI7tLNvrBZArjWcnb9mjMA?feat=directlink

I think you have to go down to quarter-inch mesh to stop the mouse.

We use 1/2 inch in the front for mouse guards and haven't had any problems, and wire is cheap. We just use a staple gun to hold the wire in place.

Look for 3/8" spacing. 1/2" is pretty close.

Yeah, it looks like half-inch mesh is fine. I couldn't remember where I first heard about it, but I found the source. Michael Palmer talks about using the mesh at the 16-minute mark in the "Over Wintering Bees and Beekeeping Discussion Panel" video posted here on the Brushy Mountain website:

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Resources/Videos.asp

I'll take his word for it. Thanks for the feedback.

I have had no mice with 1/2" a la Mike Palmer's method. It is folded into the entrance though, which would reduce the 1/2" dimension in one direction. Would be more like 3/8" x 1/2".

I was told some time ago that a mouse can get in a hole that's the size of a large pencil. My assumption would be not the "standard" size, but the round ones that are just larger than that. That being the case I'd consider larger than 1/2". However MP I wouldn't go against. He has forgotten well more than I've ever known about bees, so I'd stick with it. Depending upon the wire gauge your openings will be smaller than 1/2". Probably closer to a heavy 3/8 or 7/16". IMHO folding it in the entrance would be better.

You'll find out soon enough if 1/2" will work, but I can tell you mice got into one of my hives last winter through the 3/8 " entrance. I have sheet metal reducers on this fall.

All my bottom boards have a 5/16" opening and I don`t use reducers and I had 1 of 20 hives with a mouse in it this spring.

Ok Perhaps a dumb question. . . But what are the "problems" other than with the equipment that they chew through with them getting in the hive? I know that they would also leave a bit of a mess on the bottom board or wherever they are so that could be another.

getting through a 3/8 inch hive opening is not the same as fitting through a 3/8 inch mesh. Mice can flatten themselves out but they still need greater width to the hole.
What I gauge by is several holes I have seen mice chew through plywood floors. they are always about the size of a penny round and I suspect gotten just large enough for them to squeeze through in regard to both height and width. I have seen a mouse squeeze itself through a 1/4 inch slit that was 36 inches wide as well.

delber said:

Ok Perhaps a dumb question. . . But what are the "problems" other than with the equipment that they chew through with them getting in the hive? I know that they would also leave a bit of a mess on the bottom board or wherever they are so that could be another.

Click to expand...

When mice get in a hive, being the mammals that they are, they are fairly active even in cold weather. While they are active, and your bees can hardly move from the cold, the mice are eating bees, pollen, and honey, and destroying comb, not to mention all the nest debris. They will wipe out a hive because your bees are defenseless in the cold.

If a mouse can fit his skull through a hole he's in. In summer when adults are spitting out a litter a month small mice that will fit through 1/2 inch mesh are everywhere. When colder temps come they dont quit breeding but really slow down and they dont travel as much as in summer. 1/2 should work 99% of the time but what i do is cut 1/2 mesh about 2inches wide and fold it so the holes are now 1/2 wide and 1/4 to 3/8 high. I fasten this to a 3/4 X 3/4 X 15 inch pc of wood with 2 screw holes drilled in it. I winter 25 to 50 colonies here in Michigan and with this method i have never had a mouse problem

FYI
I located some 3/8" poly coated "HWC" at my local B&b Do-It center.
It's a special order item and it's in 15' lenghths.

Brushy Mountain...... It cost me five - six dollars for three mouse guards for the entrances.